Marcus & Co. Black Opal and Enamel Pendant Necklace

Records indicate that the Marcus family generally visited Europe two or even three times a year, starting in the 1890s. The family was deeply interested in the exquisite and intellectual work of the leading French art jewelry designers, among them Lalique, Vever, and also Colonna, a one time associate of Louis Tiffany's who worked for Siegfried Bing in Paris. The Marcus family had met Vever in 1893, and likely admired Lalique's jewels both in Paris as well as in the periodical art literature of the time. Lalique was the first jeweler to look beyond trite idealization and explore without blinking the evolving beauty of blossoming plant life, from budding through to wilting and decay. In this Marcus pendant, the iris leaves are shown with drooping golden tips - as in nature, even as the flowers reach full bloom, the leaves begin to pass their prime and yellow. Additionally, George, an intuitive designer, did not enamel the iris blossoms, entrusting the vivd indigo blue of the opal to leave a lasting impression on the mind's eye. The archival numbering of this pendant suggests a date of 1899-1901 - several years before Louis Tiffany masterfully explored this theme.